Kota Gede also known as Pasar Gede is an area in theIndonesian city of Yogyakarta. One of the old capitals of Mataram, the area nowhas an archaeological site which contains the remains of the kraton (palace),the royal cemetery, and royal mosque of Mataram, dated from the late 16th andearly 17th centuries.
The honorable name of this location in a higher and morerespectful level of Javanese language (Kromo) is Pasar Gede.
There are many legends and local tales connects the siteto the Mataram palace, however much of the physical remnants of the palace andthe capital city are already destroyed. The only parts that remains quiteintact are the Kota Gede royal mosque, the royal cemetery (precursor toImogiri), and a few sections of the original palace walls.
The city lost its prestige when the center of power wasshifted to Kartasura near modern Surakarta. The city further lost its politicaland cultural significance after replaced by Imogiri as the royal cemetery forthe sultanates. Later sultanate of Mataram was split between YogyakartaSultanate and Surakarta.
The Royal Graveyard holds important graves that traceconnections of Mataram with earlier kingdoms, and the placement of the graveswithin the covered area of the graveyard can be considered as a physicalrepresentation of 'silsilah' or genealogy of the rulers and their progenitors.It is guarded and maintained by Juru Kunci who are employed by the two palacesof Yogyakarta and Surakarta.
In mid-twentieth century, Kota Gede became synonymous withsilverworks and silver handicrafts, since the area has become the home ofsilversmith in Yogyakarta. At the time of Indonesian independence in the 1940s,and after considerable promotion and publicity to the silverworks within thislocality, Kota Gede gain popularity as the center of Javanese silverhandicraft.
During the expansion of Yogyakarta city in the latetwentieth century, Kota Gede was absorbed into Yogyakarta and has become merelya suburb within the city.
In the 8th century, the area of Mataram (now is known asYogyakarta) was the center of Old Mataram Kingdom that ruled the entire Java.This kingdom had an extraordinary prosperity and civilization, so it had theability to build ancient temples with an extravagant architecture, such asPrambanan Temple and Borobudur Temple. However, in the 10th century, with anunknown reason, the kingdom moved the center of the government to East Javaarea. The great numbers of citizens left Mataram and gradually this area becamea woodland or forest.
Six centuries later, Java was ruled by The Sultanate ofPajang which is centered in Central Java. Sultan Hadiwijaya, who ruled in thattime, gave Alas Mentaok (Mentaok Forest), which was very large in area, to KiGede Pemanahan for his achievement in defeating the enemy of kingdom. Ki GedePemanahan with all of his family and followers moved to Alas Mentaok, a forestthat used to be the Old Mataram Kingdom.
The small village that was built by Ki Gede Pemanahan inthat forest became prosperous. After the death of Ki Gede Pemanahan, his thronewas replaced by his son who was titled Senapati Ingalaga. Under the rule of thewise Senapati, the village turned into a city that was more crowded andprosperous, therefore it is known as Kotagede (a big city). Afterwards, Senapatibuilt an inner fort (cepuri) around the palace and an outer fort (baluwarti)that surrounded the area of ±200 acres. In the outside of these two forts, theyare also equipped by a moat that was as wide as a river.
Mean while, in the Sultanate of Pajang there was a powerstruggle for the king throne after the death of Sultan Hadiwijaya. The crownprince that was known as Pangeran Benawa (Prince Benawa), was shoved aside byArya Pangiri. Afterwards, Pangeran Benawa asked Senapati for a help since theArya Pangiri’s government was judged to be unfair and disadvantageous to thepeople of Pajang. The war started. Arya Pangiri was conquered, but he wasforgiven by Senapati. Then, Pangeran Benawa offered the throne of Pajang toSenapati, but he refused the offer politely. A year after, Pangeran Benawapassed away, but he had given a will that said Pajang must be ruled bySenapati. Since then, Senapati became the first king of Islamic Mataram and wasentitled Panembahan. He didn’t want to use his title, Sultan, in order to honorSultan Hadiwijaya and Pangeran Benawa. His palace was located in Kotagede.
Then, Panembahan Senapati expanded the area of IslamicMataram Kingdom to Pati, Madiun, Kediri, and Pasuruan. Panembahan Senapatipassed away in 1601 and was buried in Kotagede next to his father’s tomb.Afterwards, the Islamic Mataram Kingdom conquered almost the entire island ofJave (except Banten and Batavia) and reached the highest prosperity under therule of the third king, Sultan Agung (the grandson of Panembahan Senapati). In1613, Sultan Agung moved the central of the kingdom to Karta (next to Plered)and ended the era of Kotagede as a central of Islamic Mataram Kingdom
In the later development, Kotagede remained to be crowdedalthough it was no longer as the capital of the kingdom. Many historicalremains such as the cemetery of the kingdom forefathers, Kotagede Mosque,traditional houses with Javanese architecture, the topography of the villagesor kampongs that using the ancient city’s system, and the fort ruins can befound in Kotagede.
Pasar Kotagede(Kotagede traditional market)
The city system of Javanese kingdom usually places thepalace, the roundabout, and the traditional market on the line that stretchesfrom South to North. The Book of Nagarakertagama that was written in the era ofMajapahit Kingdom (14th century), told that this pattern had been used sincethat time. The traditional market that had been there since the era ofPanembahan Senopati, is still exist until now. Every legi morning in Javanesecalendar system, sellers, buyers, and trading products are spread all over themarket. The building has been renovated, but the position remains the same. Ifyou want to explore Kotagede, you can start it from the traditional market bywalking to the South heading the graveyard, the ruins of inner fort, and thefenced banyan tree.
The kingdom forefathers’ graveyard
Walk 100 meters to the South of Kotagede TraditionalMarket, we can find the graveyard area of the Islamic Mataram Kingdom’sforefathers that is surrounded by a tall and strong wall. The portal to thegraveyard area has the feature of Hindu architecture. Each portal has the thickwooden handle and is decorated with beautiful carvings. Some kingdom servantsdressing up in traditional Javanese outfit guard the graveyard complex for 24hours a day.
We can pass through3 portals before getting to the last portal that heads to the graveyard area.For getting into the graveyard area, we have to dress up in traditionalJavanese outfit (it can be rented there). The visitors are only allowed toenter the graveyard on Sunday, Monday, Thursday, and Friday at 08.00 to 16.00.For honoring the Mataram Kingdom’s forefathers here, the visitors are notallowed to take pictures or bring a camera and wear golden jewelries inside thegraveyard. The important people that were buried in here: Sultan Hadiwijaya, KiGede Pemanahan, Panembahan Senopati, and their families.
Kotagede Mosque
The exploring ofKotagede will not be completed without visiting the Masjid Kotagede (KotagedeMosque), the oldest mosque in Yogyakarta that is located in the area of thegraveyard. Afterwards, you won’t be disappointed walking through the narrowpassage way behind the wall around the graveyard area to see the architecturethoroughly and observe the daily activities of the people in Kotagede.
TraditionalHouse
Right across the graveyard area, we are able to see aJavanese traditional house. However, if you want to walk for 50 meters away tothe South, you will be able to see a portal with a low hollow space and a signthat says "cagar budaya" (=cultural preservation). Get into theportal you will see some Kotagede Javanese traditional houses that are stillpreserved well and truly used as a place to live.
Kedhaton (TheRoyal Palace)
Walking to the South a bit, you will see 3 banyan treeslocated right in the middle of the road. In the middle, there is a smallbuilding that is used for keeping the "watu gilang" (a specialstone). It is a square-shaped black stone that has some written words on itssurface. The written words are arranged in a circle-like shape. It says: ITAMOVENTUR MUNDU S - AINSI VA LE MONDE - ZOO GAAT DE WERELD - COSI VAN IL MONDO.In the outside of the circle, there are some words that say: AD ATERN AMMEMORIAMINFELICS - IN FORTUNA CONSOERTES DIGNI VALETE QUIDSTPERIS INSANI VIDETE IGNARIET RIDETE, CONTEMNITE VOS CONSTEMTU - IGM (In Glorium Maximam).
Inside thebuilding, there is also "watu cantheng" (another special stone),three balls that are consist of yellowish stones. The local people had thoughtthe stone "balls" were the toys of Panembahan Senapati. But there isalso a possibility that the stones are the bullets of old cannons.
The ruins of thefort
Panembahan Senopati built the inner fort (cepuri)completed with the moat around the palace, the area covered more or less400x400 meters. The real ruins of the fort are still seen on the corner ofSouthwest and Southeast. The wall was 4 feets thick and made of stone blocks.The rest of the moat will be seen on the East, South, and West.
Walking through Kotagede will enrich our knowledge aboutthe history of Islamic Mataram Kingdom that was successful in Java.Furthermore, you can see local people’s daily routines closely. They have beenstaying inside the strong wall and doing the activities since hundreds yearsago.
It is different with other places, the local people are sofriendly with the Javanese characteristic, polite, and not too commercial. InKotagede, you won’t be bothered by the hawkers who like to force people to buytheir things. It’s a bit surprising, or pleasing will be the right word. Whomiss the hawkers anyway?
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